How to Keep Your Hair Moisturized in Dry Heat

Unlike moist heat, dry heat can leave our hair super parched.  In the following video, Ambrosia discusses how she keeps her moisturized in dry Arizona:

Study || Hard Water Impact On Hair

Hard water metals concentrate primarily in the cuticle layer.  A study published in 2011 indicated that these metals can affect certain hair properties, which include:

- stiffening of hair strand
- reduction of combing forces
- improvement of ability to hold a style in virgin hair
- reduction of ability to hold a style in bleached hair

Additionally, certain variables affect the uptake of hard water metals by the hair, such as the:

- condition of the hair (e.g., chemically damaged)
- pH of the water
- level of water hardness


ABSTRACTS:
STRUCTURAL IMPLICATIONS OF HARD WATER METALS (2011)
UPTAKE OF HARD WATER METALS BY HAIR (2011)

When The Satin Bonnet (or Scarf) Is Not Enough

You have heard it before ... "Make sure you sleep with a satin scarf or bonnet to protect your hair while you sleep."  Well, have you ever awaken in the morning with the scarf or bonnet on the other side of the bed or with the moisture sucked out of your hair in spite of wearing one?  If so, you are not alone.

So, just how can you protect your strands and retain moisture at night when the satin scarf or bonnet is not enough?  Here are a few ideas:

1. For added protection, sleep on a satin pillowcase.  If your scarf or bonnet happens to slip off at night, your satin pillowcase will become the next line of protection against dry, frizzy, snagged hair.  Even if your scarf or bonnet stays on at night, sleeping on a satin pillowcase on top of that can do wonders for retaining moisture in your hair at night.

2. Purchase a better quality satin scarf or adjustable bonnet.  Not all satin scarves and bonnets are created equal.  Some are constructed from very thin and poor quality fabrics and threads.  What is considered a good quality satin? Well, first let me explain that the word "satin" is used to describe the type of weave.  There are "satin" polyesters and "satin" silks, for example.  Among the polyesters, "charmeuse satin" (or, sometimes called "satin charmeuse") is a smoother, better quality weave for the hair.  Purchasing a "charmeuse satin" scarf or bonnet is a good investment.  Also, look for adjustable bonnets (as opposed to purely elastic ones) for better stay at night.

3. Better yet, get a silk scarf or silk adjustable bonnet.  If you can afford to do so, silk is a much better material for the hair than polyester.  When searching for silk scarves or bonnets, look for those that say "charmeuse satin" (or, sometimes called "satin charmeuse").  This type of weave is the most luxurious of all the weaves.  Again, look for adjustable bonnets (as opposed to purely elastic ones) for better stay at night.

4. If you suffer from dry hair, turn on the humidifier.  The humidifier can provide extra vapor in the air thus creating a moisturizing environment for your hair while you sleep.

Topic of the Day || Dry Hair

Here are some previous posts addressing "dry hair":

1. Reader's Question: More on Moisture ... Dry Ends
2. No Poo Review: Baking Soda with Conditioner
3. Chapt. 6: Moisture, Moisture, Moisture
4. Oh Honey, Honey ... Deep Conditioner Recipes
5. Winterize Your Conditioner!

For more, check out the labels "Dry Hair" and "Moisture".

Mixology || Baking Soda and Avocado Shampoo Recipe for Dry Hair

Looking for a simple, homemade natural shampoo that is cleansing but non-drying?  Check out this recipe:

Ingredients:
avocado
baking soda
distilled water

Directions:

1. Skin an avocado, remove the pit and mash it in a bowl;
2. Add 2 teaspoons of baking soda;
3. Add 1/4 cup of hot distilled water; and
4. Mix the ingredients into a paste and massage the homemade moisturizing shampoo into your hair and scalp.
5. (Optional) You may or may not want to follow up with an apple cider vinegar rinse for pH balance.

Remember to refrigerate the unused mixture. To customize this or any of the other recipes, add a few drops of essential oil for a pleasant scent. Popular oils include lavender, sandalwood, jasmine and rosemary.

For more moisturizing shampoos, check out Suite101: Shampoo Recipes for Dry Hair and Scalp.

Hair Issues || High Porosity (and Low Porosity)

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Porosity.  What is it?  It is a measure of how easily water and other substances can enter and exit the hair strand.  Depending on the condition of the hair's cuticle layers, the porosity can rank from low (i.e., the result of flat, tightly bound cuticles) to high (i.e., the result of gaps or lifted cuticles).  Highly porous hair, in particular, is more susceptible to moisture loss and breakage.  If your hair is highly porous, read the following article on how to combat the issue:

ADDRESSING HIGH POROSITY

For low porosity or more on porosity in general:
POROSITY EXPLAINED

Friday's Length Retention Tip!

Do you want to reach your goal?  Then ...

seal those ends.  Regular moisturizing is insufficient for some people.  Sealing may be necessary to lock in the moisture and keep the ends supple.

The sealing process: Begin by moisturizing the ends of your hair with water (or a water-based moisturizer).  Then follow up with an oil (e.g., coconut oil, olive oil, avocado oil) and/or a butter (e.g., shea).  That's it!  Be sure to seal after every wash as well.

Moisture: An Oldie But Goodie

Here is a repost from July 26, 2009!!  Just in time for the Fall.

What causes these dry ends?

Sebum is the hair and scalp's natural conditioner. In straight hair, this oily substance can generally move down the shaft to the ends fairly easily because of the direct path. The hair's close proximity to the scalp as well as continual brushing and combing also aid in the transport process. As for textured hair? That is another story.

The coilier your hair, the harder it is for sebum to travel down to the ends. Here's my analogy: Imagine oil running along a straight road versus a path full of turns and twists. In the latter case, the oil may slow down or even get caught at each curve. By the time it reaches its destination, only a fraction of the oil will remain. There is also the possibility that it may never reach its destination. This process is basically what curly, coily, and kinky hairs experience. Additionally, factor in a minimal brushing/combing routine and the reality that some natural hair works against gravity (i.e., stands up and out away from the scalp). We ultimately have a case in which sebum just barely reaches the ends of our hair, if at all.

Now the explanation above is just one of many causes of dry ends. Other reasons are listed in this post on moisture and length retention.

How do you stop dry ends (due to inadequate sebum)?
Since sebum may barely, if at all, reach the ends of textured hair, it is necessary to quench and condition those ends. Here are some methods that work for me and may hopefully work for others:

*Discard harsh regular shampoos
Shampoos with SLS and other strong ingredients strip my hair (including my ends) of their natural oils. The shampoo I use on a regular basis contains more gentle substances. Other options to explore are conditioner washing or using homemade natural cleansers instead of a shampoo. Some people also do a treatment with oil at a warm or room temperature prior to washing to minimize sebum loss from their strands. (Click here for hot oil treatments.)

*Lather once when you shampoo
Minimal lathering equals minimal loss of whatever sebum is on my ends.

*No direct shampoo on the ends
I rarely expose my ends to direct shampoo. I just focus on the scalp and let the water and lather run down the rest of my hair.

*Saturate the ends with moisture and conditioner
Pay the most attention to your ends while conditioning and moisturizing.

*Invest in good products
Each individual head of hair is different, but this post may be a place to start in terms of what sealants, moisturizers, and conditioners to try.

*Eat foods containing omega-3 and vitamin A
Few people realize that foods, such as salmon, cantaloupe, and flaxseeds contribute to sebum production. For the omega-3 post, click here. For the vitamin A post, click here.

*Airdry the hair in a protective style
Protective styling isn't reserved for the protection of the ends. It has the added benefit, in my case, of helping my ends absorb and retain moisture post a washing session.

*Sleep with a silk scarf/pillowcase
The same added benefit applies here too.

How do you stop dry ends (due to porosity)?

I believe that another major contributor to dry ends in black hair is high porosity. What causes high porosity? Well, a number of things including gradual wear and tear of the hair. I really encourage anyone who believes they might have this issue to read this extremely informative article: Part 1 . For solutions to the porosity issues, do check out Part 2 as well: Part 2 .


SOURCES & MORE READS:
SEBUM
SEBUM & TEXTURED HAIR 1
SEBUM & TEXTURED HAIR 2: Randy Schueller, Perry Romanowski. "Conditioning agents for hair and skin".
SEALING (OILS & MOISTURE RETENTION)

Winterize Your Conditioner!

Okay, it's not officially Winter yet, but it doesn't hurt to prepare ...

My obsession with shea butter does not stop at hair and body butters but extends to deep conditioners.  A few tablespoons will infuse an inexpensive conditioner with moisture and slip.  Try adding some melted shea butter to V05, Suave, or White Rain ... or mixing it with honey, egg, oil, or avocado to deep condition your hair this Winter ... and even Autumn!

Silk Amino Acids - Smooth and Shimmery Hair

What comes to mind when someone says "silk"?  Smooth.  Shimmery.  Soft.  Shine.  Well, imagine bringing all these characteristics to your hair.  How?  Silk amino acids (SAAs).

SAAs are hydrolyzed from silk protein and help to impart smoothness and shine to the hair and skin.  In the hair care community, they are a popular addition to leave-ins and deep conditioners.  In the skin care community, they may be added to lotions and moisturizers to achieve silky skin.

SAAs are on my 2011 wish list, so unfortunately, I do not have a personal review to share with you all.  However, the following links are good places to start for anyone interested in experimenting with SAAs:

ABOUT SILK AMINO ACIDS
BUYING SILK POWDER
BUYING LIQUID SILK (contains preservatives)

Oh Honey, Honey ... Deep Conditioners

Honey is a natural humectant (substance that absorbs and retains moisture).  Add it to a conditioner or mix it with oils and other substances to enhance moisturization and slip.  Here are some recipes you can try:

LOO's RECIPE (good for moisture & detangling)
1 avocado
3 tbs honey
2 tbs olive oil
1 tps apple cider vinegar (optional)
*Instructions: Cut up one avocado, mash with a mixing spoon, and then add the honey and olive oil. Use a hand blender to blend all the ingredients thoroughly (so that no avocado bits remain). Continue to add olive oil until the mixture reaches your desired consistency.  Apply to hair and allow to set for 20-60 minutes. Detangle and rinse.
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BUDGET BLEND (moisture & detangling)
1/2 cup cheap conditioner (e.g., V05, Suave, LustraSilk, Lekair)
3 tbs honey
2 tps olive or coconut oil (optional)
*Instructions: Stir the ingredients together and apply to hair.  Allow to set for 20-60 minutes.  Detangle and rinse.

HONEY CONDITIONER (moisture & strength)
1 tsp honey
2 Tbs olive oil
1 egg yolk
Instructions

SESAME & COCONUT PROTEIN CONDITIONER (moisture & strength)
2 tbs olive oil
2 tbs light sesame oil
2 eggs
2 tbs coconut milk
2 tbs honey
1 tsp coconut oil
Instructions

STRENGTH BUILDING DEEP CONDITIONER (strength & thickness)
1 tbs virgin olive oil
2 tbs honey
1 tbs buttermilk
1 tbs natural unbleached flour
Instructions

COCONUT HONEY DEEP CONDITIONER (moisture & strength)
4 tbs coconut oil
2 tbs honey
Instructions

New Shampoo ... Let's Talk pH

*The truth about pH and our hair:
The pH of our hair is about 5. Some sources say the pH of shampoos should range between 6.0-8.0 while others say the ideal pH is 5.5. Another source suggests between 4.0-7.0. Whatever the ideal number, the truth is the pH of our hair is 5 for a reason ... and to knock that balance way off can cause problems (e.g., dryness, roughness, cuticle lifting, scalp fungal growth, etc.).

MORE READS:
pH AND OUR HAIR - NATURAL HAVEN
pH AND OUR HAIR - CLASS PROJECT
LIST OF SHAMPOOS and pH
BENEFITS of LOW pH

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*Why no poo no more?
My no poo routine consisted of using 1 part baking soda, 2-3 parts conditioner, and 3 parts water. I loved the mixture because it cleansed my scalp really well while not stripping my hair. However, this routine is nixed in light of the following informative sources - Kimmaytube's pH video and thenaturalhaven's baking soda post. I knew beforehand that baking soda was alkaline (i.e., high pH), but I did not know that though I diluted it with conditioner (slightly acidic) and water (neutral), it was still pretty high. I tested the solution myself and saw a whopping pH of 9. Even though I follow up with an ACV rinse (pH of 4), I don't know what long-term effect this routine will have on my hair and scalp ... so I'll stop now.

*My new shampoo:
I don't have a staple seeing as I'm just now switching back to poos. Right now, this Desert Essence is up to bat and Giovanni is on deck. Perhaps, Alba will make an experience too. Whatever the shampoo, it must have these qualities:

-max pH of 7 (after dilution in water),
-mainly natural,
-no sulfates,
-no silicones,
-no EDTA,
-super cleansing for the scalp (hence why I bought "for oily hair")

More on Desert Essence Organics Lemon Tea Tree Shampoo:
You smelled it right! I will be reviewing this in the near future. Any vegans or vegetarians out there will be happy to know that this shampoo is 100% vegan. The Lemon Tee Tree shampoo boasts containing: jojoba seed oil to loosen and dissolve excess oil and build-up on the scalp and hair, high-quality Austrailian Tea Tree Oil to provide antiseptic qualities, sugar cleansers, and more.

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For those who want to check out the Desert Essence Organics line, here you go:

Desert Essence Hair