3in6: Ending Month #1

See "3in6 Challenge" details here.

Okay, ladies, we are concluding the first month of the challenge.  Wow, how time flies.   My hair has been twisted the entire month; I spent almost two weeks in small twists then transitioned into bigger twists for two more weeks.  These big twists will stay in for another two weeks, and then I'll see what to do next.  Last week I retwisted the perimeter after a prepoo, wash, and condition.

In other news, yesterday I purchased avocados, spinach, and carrots to restock on vegetables.  I may try to get bananas later this week.

How did you ladies end Month #1?  What styles do you plan to do in Month #2?

Polyphenols, Hormesis and Disease: Part II

In the last post, I explained that the body treats polyphenols as potentially harmful foreign chemicals, or "xenobiotics". How can we reconcile this with the growing evidence that at least a subset of polyphenols have health benefits?

Clues from Ionizing Radiation

One of the more curious things that has been reported in the scientific literature is that although high-dose ionizing radiation (such as X-rays) is clearly harmful, leading to cancer, premature aging and other problems, under some conditions low-dose ionizing radiation can actually decrease cancer risk and increase resistance to other stressors (1, 2, 3, 4, 5). It does so by triggering a protective cellular response, increasing cellular defenses out of proportion to the minor threat posed by the radiation itself. The ability of mild stressors to increase stress resistance is called "hormesis." Exercise is a common example. I've written about this phenomenon in the past (6).

The Case of Resveratrol

Resveratrol is perhaps the most widely known polyphenol, available in supplement stores nationwide. It's seen a lot of hype, being hailed as a "calorie restriction mimetic" and the reason for the "French paradox."* But there is quite a large body of evidence suggesting that resveratrol functions in the same manner as low-dose ionizing radiation and other bioactive polyphenols: by acting as a mild toxin that triggers a hormetic response (7). Just as in the case of radiation, high doses of resveratrol are harmful rather than helpful. This has obvious implications for the supplementation of resveratrol and other polyphenols. A recent review article on polyphenols stated that while dietary polyphenols may be protective, "high-dose fortified foods or dietary supplements are of unproven efficacy and possibly harmful" (8).

The Cellular Response to Oxidants

Although it may not be obvious, radiation and polyphenols activate a cellular response that is similar in many ways. Both activate the transcription factor Nrf2, which activates genes that are involved in detoxification of chemicals and antioxidant defense**(9, 10, 11, 12). This is thought to be due to the fact that polyphenols, just like radiation, may temporarily increase the level of oxidative stress inside cells. Here's a quote from the polyphenol review article quoted above (13):

We have found that [polyphenols] are potentially far more than 'just antioxidants', but that they are probably insignificant players as 'conventional' antioxidants. They appear, under most circumstances, to be just the opposite, i.e. prooxidants, that nevertheless appear to contribute strongly to protection from oxidative stress by inducing cellular endogenous enzymic protective mechanisms. They appear to be able to regulate not only antioxidant gene transcription but also numerous aspects of intracellular signaling cascades involved in the regulation of cell growth, inflammation and many other processes.

It's worth noting that this is essentially the opposite of what you'll hear on the evening news, that polyphenols are direct antioxidants. The scientific cutting edge has largely discarded that hypothesis, but the mainstream has not yet caught on.

Nrf2 is one of the main pathways by which polyphenols increase stress resistance and antioxidant defenses, including the key cellular antioxidant glutathione (14). Nrf2 activity is correlated with longevity across species (15). Inducing Nrf2 activity via polyphenols or by other means substantially reduces the risk of common lifestyle disorders in animal models, including cardiovascular disease, diabetes and cancer (16, 17, 18), although Nrf2 isn't necessarily the only mechanism. The human evidence is broadly consistent with the studies in animals, although not as well developed.

One of the most interesting effects of hormesis is that exposure to one stressor can increase resistance to other stressors. For example, long-term consumption of high-polyphenol chocolate increases sunburn resistance in humans, implying that it induces a hormetic response in skin (19). Polyphenol-rich foods such as green tea reduce sunburn and skin cancer development in animals (20, 21).

Chris Masterjohn first introduced me to Nrf2 and the idea that polyphenols act through hormesis. Chris studies the effects of green tea on health, which seem to be mediated by polyphenols.

A Second Mechanism

There is a place in the body where polyphenols are concentrated enough to be direct antioxidants: in the digestive tract after consuming polyphenol-rich foods. Digestion is a chemically harsh process that readily oxidizes ingested substances such as polyunsaturated fats (22). Oxidized fat is neither healthy when it's formed in the deep fryer, nor when it's formed in the digestive tract (23, 24). Eating polyphenol-rich foods effectively prevents these fats from being oxidized during digestion (25). One consequence of this appears to be better absorption and assimilation of the exceptionally fragile omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids (26).

What does it all Mean?

I think that overall, the evidence suggests that polyphenol-rich foods are healthy in moderation, and eating them on a regular basis is generally a good idea. Certain other plant chemicals, such as suforaphane found in cruciferous vegetables, and allicin found in garlic, exhibit similar effects and may also act by hormesis (27). Some of the best-studied polyphenol-rich foods are tea (particularly green tea), blueberries, extra-virgin olive oil, red wine, citrus fruits, hibiscus tea, soy, dark chocolate, coffee, turmeric and other herbs and spices, and a number of traditional medicinal herbs. A good rule of thumb is to "eat the rainbow", choosing foods with a variety of colors.

Supplementing with polyphenols and other plant chemicals in amounts that would not be achievable by eating food is probably not a good idea.


* The "paradox" whereby the French eat a diet rich in saturated fat, yet have a low heart attack risk compared to other affluent Western nations.

** Genes containing an antioxidant response element (ARE) in the promoter region. ARE is also sometimes called the electrophile response element (EpRE).

Volumizing Shampoo GIVEAWAY!

 Shielo is an established haircare line that has become popular in salons across New York, Paris and Sao Paolo.  All products created by the company are sustainably sourced and cruelty free.  In sponsoring this giveaway, the company is offering a FREE Volumizing Shampoo to one lucky winner.

Product Description: This modern volumizing shampoo is designed to remove residue and product styling build-up, without stripping hair or fading color to provide an optimum environment for thicker hair. Fights free radicals that damage and weaken hair. The results are thicker, healthier, more beautiful hair.  (Click here for ingredients listing.)

So how do you enter the giveaway contest?  Well just leave a comment below stating how you feel this product will benefit your tresses.*   The entries will close on March 3rd at 11:59pm EST.  On March 4th, one luck winner will be announced.

*Only subscribers to (or followers of) the blog will be allowed to enter.

Why Organic?

Here are some of the many reasons I prefer organic ...

10 Dirty Fruits and Veggies

Interview with a Fine-Haired Natural: Session II

3. What styles do you prefer to wear?

Currently my preference is for styles that have a lot of volume and texture because like many naturals, I prefer 'big hair'. Therefore, I usually am wearing a 'quick dry' braid-out, a flat twist-out/bantu knot-out combo, or a wash n' go bun. In the summer when the humidity does not allow me to stretch my hair, I prefer mini-twists since I can still enjoy the volume of my hair, and then unravel the twists after a week or two for a fuller twist-out.


4. How has being fine-haired affected you? What are the pros and cons to being fine-haired?

One con of having fine hair is that the density of your hair in its natural state does not always translate into fuller styles outside of an afro. Many of the styles I see may look great on the person wearing them such as medium twists, box braids, and twist and braidouts, but when I try them, they do not come out with the same lushness. I am now more critical of whether or not I decide to try a new style that I see on another natural and I consider if and how I can recreate it on my own hair. Another con is the problem of tangles and split ends. Most naturals have to pay special attention to their ends because afro hair is fragile, but it is at a different level of care when you have fine hair that is fragile and the ends can break and thin out easily. Finally, I find that my fine hair prevents my styles from lasting very long. My hair tends to frizz quickly in protective styles and styles look fresh for a maximum of one to two days before I need to re-set the style. However, this has been helped by using better styling aids and silk scarves to minimize frizz.

Some pros of fine hair are that the density is not the actual thickness so a daunting task such as detangling, putting my hair into braids after washing, or the drying time for a large mass of hair actually takes half as long as most naturals with coarser strands. Another pro is that I can achieve both a sleek look and a voluminous look with one style, such as my mini-twists before and after unraveling for a fuller twist-out.

5. How do you manage with fine hair?

I've learned my hair over the years and found some tricks and shortcuts to manipulate it into certain styles, but at the end of the day, I've found that working with my hair gets me the best results. I take advantage of my hair's shrinkage when styling for volume, frizz when going for a textured bohemian look, and lack of volume when I do not want 'big hair,' but would prefer a sleeker style.

Healthy Hair Feature: Chime

1) Are you natural, relaxed, texlaxed, or transitioning? (And, how long?)
I'm natural! I will be natural for 2 years on February 16, 2011.

2) What mistakes have you made in your hair care journey?
I really can' t think of any. I did tons of research so I never really made any mistakes. I just wish I would have worn my hair "out" more after I did the big chop. I wore protective styles (mostly twists) to make sure my hair would grow. I wish I would have enjoyed rocking my 'fro when it was shorter.

3) What is your current HEALTHY HAIR routine?
I co-wash my hair every two weeks. I only shampoo my hair every two months. I deep conditon my hair every time I wash it and seal it with an oil based product. I only use natural products and I sleep with a satin bonnet.


4) Do you have a HEALTHY BODY routine?
If so, what is it? I don't have one! :/ I know I'm terribe and I should work out. I do try to drink plenty of water and make healthier choices when it comes to meals, but as far as physical exercise, walking up the staircase at work is all I get lol I have been around the same weight since I was in high school. I think I have only have gained 5-7 pounds since then so I don't have that push to lose weight but I know I need to for my health. I have A.D.D. when it comes to working out lol I'll be so motivated for a couple of days and then I'll get distracted and it will die off. I need to add working out to my New Year's resolution list lol

5) Do you have any advice for those seeking healthy tresses? 
Do your research on healthy hair care. There is loads of information out there and do what you know you need to do in order to gain healthy hair. Stop making excuses as to why you can't stick with it. If healthy hair is something you want, make the necessary sacrafices to get it. Put away the flat iron and blow dryer and find healthy alternatives. Healthy hair isn't just going to magically appear; you must put in work.

6) You can find Chime on:
Youtube: http://www.youtube.com/user/HairCrush?feature=mhum
Fotki: Username - ManeChick (HairCrush)

Yummy Yogurt Conditioners

Yogurt-based conditioners can make for a light to deep protein treatment.  Experiment with the recipes below (and be sure to blend thoroughly for those containing a banana as well).  Enjoy!

RICH YOGURT CONDITIONER
plain whole yogurt
egg
banana
lemon juice
vitamin E oil (optional)
tea tree oil (optional)
Recipe and Instructions

PROTEIN-PACKED CONDITIONER
egg
yogurt
Recipe and Instructions

FRUIT SMOOTHIE HAIR MASK
banana
avocado
cantaloupe
wheat germ oil
yogurt
Recipe and Instructions

SIMPLE SMOOTHIE CONDITIONER
yogurt
banana
Recipe and Instructions

Feel free to share any of your yogurt recipes below!

Henna Melt GIVEAWAY Winner!

We have a winner for the Henna Melt Giveaway sponsored by The Hair SheBang! 

Thanks to all the ladies who shared how they strengthen their hair.

According the random number generator, our winner is commenter #17:

Congratulations, Nefertiti!! 

Use the "Contact Me" form to claim your prize. Please respond by February 20, 11:59pm EST.

3in6: Day Fourteen

See "3in6 Challenge" details here.

Hey ladies!  We are officially two weeks into the challenge.

After wearing small twists for nearly two weeks, I transitioned into my trusty, medium twists.  (Fingers only; no comb.)  Why the transition, you say?  It's been raining galore and ... rain + small twists + shrinkage = single-strand knots on my ends.  Yep.  They had to go.  For me, bigger twists work better at keeping single-strand knots at bay.  Eh ... it was fun while it lasted.

These larger twists will be in for a few weeks as I re-do the perimeter weekly after each wash.  You know the drill.

As for the rest of my update, I've been:
+taking my multi-vitamin
+eating my vegetables and fruits
+drinking my water

The scissors have been calling my name, so I hid them to minimize my temptation to further cut.

So ladies, how are you on day fourteen?  Any surprises or adjustments?

Interview with a Fine-Haired Natural: Session I

{Box braids}

This is session #1 of the interview.  Session #2 coming soon ...


1. How have you "faked the fullness" in protective styles?

The only true protective style that I wear is mini twists. To make them appear fuller, I do them on wet hair and twist loosely, or do them on damp hair and twist tightly. For wet twists, I do not twist my hair as tightly after initially securing the roots, so that my twists can expand as they dry. This means more shrinkage, but fuller twists. The goal in protective styling fine hair is to mimic the natural volume, shape, and layering of your hair when it is in an afro state so taking advantage of your natural shrinkage is key. As my twists dry and every 3-4 days, I stretch them in a braidout to get some length. With the length, I do a variety of down and up styles where I 'fan' out my buns to create an illusion of volume. I try to avoid bunching my hair up together into tight buns or updos so that the volume is not minimized.

{Super micro twists (LEFT) vs. bigger twists (RIGHT)}

For semi-protective styles such as braidouts or twistouts, I set my hair damp rather than wet, I separate my hair strand by strand when unraveling the style, and I sometimes 'bob' my hair to create fullness when wearing the style down. For braidouts, I use the "quick dry method" that I learned from youtuber CurlyChronicles. I set my hair in very large twists immediately after applying my leave-in and sometimes styler, then after an hour, I unravel the damp twists and let my hair naturally start to dry as I style section by section. By the time I reach each section, my hair is slightly damp, but still detangled and easy to manipulate. My hair is set in a braidout with volume in a matter of hours, but I usually take it out the next morning to get maximum definition. I usually create my twistouts from my 'quick dry' braid-out by dampening my hair with a spritz bottle and twisting medium size sections. If I am styling from wet hair, I will do a braidout that I will need to re-braid once more the next evening for fullness, or I do a flat twistout in the front and bantu knot out in the back to wear a pinned up bob.

{Today with longer hair
in micro twists}

2. How do you deal with scalpiness in twists/braids?


I have not mastered dealing with scalpy braids, which is why I do not wear them after several failed attempts. For twists, I simply have to make more of them where my hair is finest. For example, the sides of my hair are very sparse so those twists are usually half the size of the twists at the crown of my head where my hair has the most density. I have tried all sizes of twists and the best ones for my whole head are smaller or mini twists since they are able to show the 'natural volume, shape, and layering' of my hair. I now know my twists are too large when I wear them down and they mimic the natural layering of my afro, but not the volume or shape. Example: I turn to the side and the back of my hair is flat, rather than rounded out. Despite making my twists smaller, I still tend to have scalpiness near the front and sizes so I just do lots of side parts, middles parts, and bangs to cover any exposed scalp. For twistouts, I separate more as I mentioned above and I make an effort to blend any parts that show.

Polyphenols, Hormesis and Disease: Part I

What are Polyphenols?
Polyphenols are a diverse class of molecules containing multiple phenol rings. They are synthesized in large amounts by plants, certain fungi and a few animals, and serve many purposes, including defense against predators/infections, defense against sunlight damage and chemical oxidation, and coloration. The color of many fruits and vegetables, such as blueberries, eggplants, red potatoes and apples comes from polyphenols. Some familiar classes of polyphenols in the diet-health literature are flavonoids, isoflavonoids, anthocyanidins, and lignins.

The Case Against Polyphenols

Many diet-health authorities seem pretty well convinced that dietary polyphenols are an important part of good health, due to their supposed antioxidant properties. In the past, I've been critical of the hypothesis. There are several reasons for it:

1. Polyphenols are often, but not always, defensive compounds that interfere with digestive processes, which is why they often taste bitter and/or astringent. Plant-eating animals including humans have evolved defensive strategies against polyphenol-rich foods, such as polyphenol-binding proteins in saliva (1).
2. Ingested polyphenols are poorly absorbed (2). The concentration in blood is low, and the concentration inside cells is probably considerably lower*. In contrast, essential antioxidant nutrients such as vitamins E and C are efficiently absorbed and retained rather than excluded from the circulation.
3. Polyphenols that manage to cross the gut barrier are rapidly degraded by the liver, just like a variety of other foreign molecules, again suggesting that the body doesn't want them hanging around (2).
4. The most visible hypothesis of how polyphenols influence health is the idea that they are antioxidants, protecting against the ravages of reactive oxygen species. While many polyphenols are effective antioxidants at high concentrations in a test tube, I don't find it very plausible that the low and transient blood concentration of polyphenols achieved by eating polyphenol-rich foods makes a meaningful contribution to that person's overall antioxidant status, when compared to the relatively high concentrations of other antioxidants in blood* (uric acid; vitamins C, E; ubiquinone) and particularly inside cells (SOD1/2, catalase, glutathione reductase, thioredoxin reductase, paraoxonase 1, etc.).
5. There are a number of studies showing that the antioxidant capacity of the blood increases after eating polyphenol-rich foods. These are often confounded by the fact that fructose (in fruit and some vegetables) and caffeine (in tea and coffee) can increase the blood level of uric acid, the blood's main water-soluble antioxidant. Drinking sugar water has the same effect (2).
6. Rodent studies showing that polyphenols improve health typically use massive doses that exceed what a person could consume eating food, and do not account for the possibility that the rodents may have been calorie restricted because their food tastes awful.

The main point is that the body does not seem to "want" polyphenols in the circulation at any appreciable level, and therefore it gets rid of them pronto. Why? I think it's because the diversity and chemical structure of polyphenols makes them potentially bioactive-- they have a high probability of altering signaling pathways and enzyme activity, in the same manner as pharmaceutical drugs. It would not be a very smart evolutionary strategy to let plants (that often don't want you eating them) take the reins on your biochemistry. Also, at high enough concentrations polyphenols can be pro-oxidants, promoting excess production of free radicals, although the biological relevance of that may be questionable due to the concentrations required.

A Reappraisal

After reading more about polyphenols, and coming to understand that the prevailing hypothesis of why they work makes no sense, I decided that the whole thing is probably bunk: at best, specific polyphenols are protective in rodents at unnaturally high doses due to some drug-like effect. But-- I kept my finger on the pulse of the field just in case, and I began to notice that more sophisticated studies were emerging almost weekly that seemed to confirm that realistic amounts of certain polyphenol-rich foods (not just massive quantities of polyphenol extract) have protective effects against a variety of health problems. There are many such studies, and I won't attempt to review them comprehensively, but here are a few I've come across:

• Dr. David Grassi and colleagues showed that polyphenol-rich chocolate lowers blood pressure, improves insulin sensitivity and lowers LDL cholesterol in hypertensive and insulin resistant volunteers when compared with white chocolate (3). Although dark chocolate is also probably richer in magnesium, copper and other nutrients than white chocolate, the study is still intriguing.
• Dr. Christine Morand and colleagues showed that drinking orange juice every day lowers blood pressure and increases vascular reactivity in overweight volunteers, an effect that they were able to specifically attribute to the polyphenol hesperidin (4).
• Dr. F. Natella and colleagues showed that red wine prevents the increase in oxidized blood lipids (fats) that occurs after consuming a meal high in oxidized and potentially oxidizable fats (5).
• Several studies have shown that hibiscus tea lowers blood pressure in people with hypertension when consumed regularly (6, 7, 8). It also happens to be delicious.
• Dr. Arpita Basu and colleagues showed that blueberries lower blood pressure and oxidized LDL in men and women with metabolic syndrome (9).
• Animal studies have generally shown similar results. Dr. Xianli Wu and colleagues showed that whole blueberries potently inhibit atherosclerosis (hardening and thickening of the arteries that can lead to a heart attack) in a susceptible strain of mice (10). This effect was associated with a higher expression level of antioxidant enzymes in the vessel walls and other tissues.

Wait a minute... let's rewind. Eating blueberries causes mice to increase the expression level of their own antioxidant enzymes?? Why would that happen if blueberry polyphenols were protecting against oxidative stress? One would expect the opposite reaction if they were. What's going on here?

In the face of this accumulating evidence, I've had to reconsider my position on polyphenols. In the process, and through conversations with knowledgeable researchers in the polyphenol field, I encountered a different hypothesis that puts the puzzle pieces together nicely.  I'll discuss that in the next post.


* Serum levels of polyphenols briefly enter the mid nM to low uM range, depending on the food (2). Compare that with the main serum antioxidants: ~200 uM for uric acid, ~100 uM for vitamin C, ~30 uM for vitamin E.

Reader's Question: Healthy Bunning of Twists

Post inspired by a reader.  Thank you for your question.

For some ladies, buns can be a dangerous protective style (an oxymoron, but true).  The style can cause tension on the edges for those with a sensitive hairline (like me).  Meanwhile, those with fragile ends can suffer damage from repeated pressure via ouchless bands.  Even those with strong strands from root to tip can experience the dangerous side of buns when styled improperly.  To avoid these problems, find alternative protective styles (such as loose updos with jaw clips) or use alternative bunning methods such as the ones below:

Bun Alternative #1: The Kimmay Bun
Purpose: Less pressure on the hairline
See this video for details.  NOTE: If the banana clip is not your friend (i.e., too teethy), then avoid this style.

{Bun using a banana clip}

Bun Alternative #2: The Pinned Up Bun
Purpose: Less pressure on the ends
Step 1: Use jumbo ouchless bands as opposed to small ones.  Small ones tend to wear quickly and get caught in the hair.  I also find that the jumbo bands can go around the hair twice or thrice with less pressure and tension than the smaller ones.

{Small (top) vs. big ouchless bands (bottom)}

Step 2: Use the jumbo ouchless band to make a standard ponytail.  Then flip the ponytail upwards as pictured below.

{Flip the ponytail upwards and pin down}

Step 3: Use a large bobby pin (or a few small ones) to secure the tip of the ponytail to your crown.  (If you hair is longer, you may wrap the ponytail around a few times before securing the tip.)  Use a few more hair pins to secure any stray hairs stemming from the bun.  NOTE: Do not pin the very tip of the ponytail.  Pin about 1-2 inches from the tip, then tuck the tip under the rest of the hair.

{Large bobby pins}

{The finished look!}

Short Twist/Braid Styles: Part III

Cute, professional twist and braid styles for shorter hair.  The 3rd in a three-part series.

The style: Flat-twisted Twists, French-braided Twists, etc.

Duration of wear: your choice

Great for: 

+working with your scalpiness (if any);

+creating the illusion of length;

How to (recommended):
1.) Start with a set of neatly parted twists.  This pre-step is important for those with with fine hair and/or scalpiness.  When twisting, do neat and defined parts.  Then proceed to the next step. (Those with thick hair may fair fine with "grab and go" twists.)
2.) Take several rows of twists and flat twist each one into your desired style (e.g., updo).

Amp it up a notch:  If you know how to flat twist or cornrow loose hair, then go ahead!  Mix up your style by flat twisting or corn rowing the sides or front of your hair and then two-strand twisting the remaining section.  (To learn how to flat twist, check this earlier post.  The videos included there taught me how to flat twist!)


Amp it up further:  Add a cute hair clip and put on your favorite sparkling, studded earrings (or bold long earrings) to transform your day look into night.

Two-strands Flat Twisted #1:


Two-strand Twists Flat Twisted #2:


Regular Flat Twists (or Cornrows) into Twists:

My Gluten-Free January

I've been avoiding most gluten, particularly wheat, for over a year now. I never had obvious symptoms that I could clearly link to eating wheat, although I had my suspicions. I've made many changes to my diet over the last decade, and I feel much better than I did ten years ago, but it's hard to disentangle all the factors. I don't think I ever went an entire month without eating any gluten at all before this January. After posting Matt Lentzner's challenge to go gluten-free this January, I felt obligated to do it myself, so I signed up!

I succeeded in avoiding all gluten for the month of January, even though it was a pain at times. I felt good before January, and didn't start with any health or body weight problems, so there wasn't much to improve. I also felt good while strictly avoiding gluten this January, perhaps a little better than usual but it's hard to say.

At the end of the month, I did a blinded wheat challenge using the method I described in a previous post, which uses gluten-free bread as the placebo (1). I recorded my blood sugar at 30 minute intervals after eating the bread, and recorded how I felt physically and emotionally for three days after each challenge.

The result? I think the bread gave me gas, but that's about it. I'm not even positive that was due to the wheat. My energy level was good, and I didn't experience any digestive pain or changes in transit time. There was no significant difference in my blood glucose response between the bread and the gluten-free bread.

I decided that I didn't have any symptoms, so I celebrated by having a porter (1) with friends a few nights later. I slept poorly and woke up with mild digestive discomfort and gas. Then I ate wheat later in the week and slept poorly and got gas again. Hmmm...

Some people might say that the body adapts to any food, and wheat is no different. Go without it for a while, and the body has a tough time digesting it. But I can go for weeks without eating a potato, a chicken thigh or broccoli, and all will digest just fine when I eat them again.

I'm pretty sure I don't have a severe reaction to gluten. I think I'm going to stick with my mostly gluten-free habits, and eat it occasionally when I'm offered food in social situations.

Did anyone else do a blinded wheat challenge? Describe it in the comments!

Gluten-Free January Raffle!

Hi, Gluten-Free January participants. Matt, Janine and I have collected about 200 survey responses at this point. So far, the results are very interesting! But we want to get as many responses as possible, because the more responses we get, the more informative the data will be for all of us. So please fill out the survey Matt sent you by e-mail, no matter what your results were, and no matter whether you stuck with the diet or not! The survey is strictly about your GFJ experience, not investment opportunities, timeshares, ShamWows or anything else. It will take you less than 5 minutes, and it's totally anonymous. The deadline is Feb 15th. Big thanks to everyone who has taken it so far.

To encourage participants to complete the survey, we're organizing a raffle. Matt and I have five Gluten-Free January T-shirts we're ready to give out for free. These shirts were designed by Matt and they're really cool. I have one myself, and the print and fabric quality are top notch. Here's what the logo looks like:
If you've completed the survey and want to be included in the raffle, please e-mail Matt to let him know you've completed it. Anyone who has already e-mailed Matt to let him know they completed the survey will automatically be entered, so no need for a second e-mail. So far, very few people have written Matt, so your probability of winning a shirt is high!

Healthy Hair Feature: MsKibibi

{Length retention from wearing wigs}

1) Are you natural, relaxed, texlaxed, or transitioning?
Texlaxed

... If texlaxed, what is your method?
My stylist texlaxes my hair now but when I self-texlaxed, I would do the half and half method. I did not add anything to the relaxer, but I reduced the relaxer time and did not smooth or let the relaxer just sit on my hair.

{Current length}

2) What mistakes have you made in your hair care journey?
The biggest mistakes I've made was usually the result of me diverting from my usual routine. I had a major setback when I tried to dye my hair black with henna and indigo. It was a disaster. Also, not doing a strand test before I tried new products all over my hair. I've had allergic reactions to hair dyes (which was why I tried henna/indigo) and even some shampoos. Also, not paying attention to ingredients. I had protein overload once because I use 3 protein products on the same wash day. It was another time that I didn't follow my usual regimen.

{Scalp shot of waistlength hair}

3) What is your current HEALTHY HAIR routine?
I'm doing my winter regimen right now, which entails me wearing a wig. I wash, and deep condition weekly, moisturize daily with a liquid moisturizer. My regular routine is pretty much the same except I use a creamy moisturizer daily instead of a liquid moisturizer.

4) Do you have a HEALTHY BODY routine? If so, what is it?
I need exercise to be fun and challenging so I don't get bored. Hence the gym is not a viable option for me. So I take ballet classes, horseback riding lessons and play tennis (when the weather permits). I also try to eat a balanced diet and take vitamin supplements.

{Winter wig}

5) Do you have any advice for those seeking healthy tresses?
Write out a regimen and be consistent. The best thing you can do is be consistent with your regimen. The one method that I believe people overlook is moisturizing their hair daily. Regardless of whether your hair is natural or relaxed, we can all use more moisture.

You can find MsKibibi at:
www.KibibiHair.com. My sister is also a guest blogger and she has natural hair.

For My Fine-Hair Ladies ...

{2008; First career; big chop; believe it or not,
my hair still shrinks up to a TWA-ish size if I allow it.}

Bear with me.  These next couple of weeks are insane outside of cyberspace.  In the meantime, check out these youtube videos of fine-haired women in twists.  Feel free to ask them questions as well.  (I have a possible fine-haired interview coming soon as well):

Braiding twists forward for volume: Niafloda
Pinned up bantu knots for volume: blackhairchronicles

And as one of my awesome fine-haired subscribers came to realize, perhaps focusing on accessorizing is best.  Though I'm not fine-haired, I understand what it's like to work with what you have (for me, it was and has been crazy shrinkage).  Sometimes it's about the accessories!

Henna Melt Giveaway!

The owner of The Hair Shebang has graciously offered two ROOI Henna Melts for this giveaway.  These melts are easy, ready-to-use henna treatments molded into beautiful rosy heart shapes, rectangles or squares. They are perfect for those who are shy when it comes to experimenting with henna or Ayurvedic powders.  The ROOI ones, in particular, yield beautiful, wine burgundy highlights.

So how do you enter the giveaway contest?  Well just leave a comment below stating how you strengthen and protect your tresses.*   The entries will close on February 14 (Valentine's Day) at 11:59pm EST.  On February 15, two lucky winners will be announced.

*Only subscribers to (or followers of) the blog will be allowed to enter.

About The Hair Shebang:  

The Hair Shebang is a

"one-stop shop for all your haircare needs, from shampooing to styling! This shop will cater to those who wish to use all-natural products for their skin and hair, as well as finding supplies for DIY (do-it-yourself) haircare and maintenance. Although hair products are our niche, many items are multipurpose, and can be used on the body, hands, feet and face."

Homemade Shampoo Recipes

Recipes that are less stripping than your average shampoo, yet cleansing.  Many of the ingredients below can be found in health food stores.


CHAMOMILE TEA
chamomile tea (or fresh chamomile flowers)
pure soap flakes
glycerin
Recipe & Instructions

SOAPWART SHAMPOO
distilled water
soapwart root
lemon verbena or catnip
Recipe & Instructions

Assorted Thoughts About the 2010 Dietary Guidelines

In the past week, I've been rooting through the USDA's 2010 Dietary Guidelines (1). Here are a few of my thoughts.

Positive

One of the things I've been enjoying recently is watching health authorities shift away from a nutrient-oriented philosophy in favor of a more food-oriented philosophy. For example, I recently read a nice editorial by Drs. Dariush Mozaffarian and David S. Ludwig (not associated with the USDA) that encapsulates this (2). Here's a quote:

Nutritional science has advanced rapidly, and the evidence now demonstrates the major limitations of nutrient-based metrics for prevention of chronic disease. The proportion of total energy from fat appears largely unrelated to risk of cardiovascular disease, cancer, diabetes, or obesity. Saturated fat—targeted by nearly all nutrition-related professional organizations and governmental agencies—has little relation to heart disease within most prevailing dietary patterns. Typical recommendations to consume at least half of total energy as carbohydrate, a nutrient for which humans have no absolute requirement, conflate foods with widely divergent physiologic effects (eg, brown rice, white bread, apples). Foods are grouped based on protein content (chicken, fish, beans, nuts) despite demonstrably different health effects. With few exceptions (eg, omega-3 fats, trans fat, salt), individual compounds in isolation have small effects on chronic diseases. Thus, little of the information found on food labels’ “nutrition facts” panels provides useful guidance for selecting healthier foods to prevent chronic disease.

In contrast with discrete nutrients, specific foods and dietary patterns substantially affect chronic disease risk, as shown by controlled trials of risk factors and prospective cohorts of disease end points

Although this approach may seem radical, it actually represents a return to more traditional, time-tested ways of eating. Healthier food-based dietary patterns have existed for generations among some populations.

Tell it! Although he doesn't use the word nutritionism, that's basically what he's arguing against. Dr. Mozaffarian seems to represent the less reductionist school of nutrition, which is a more informed version of what nutrition pioneers such as Sir Edward Mellanby, Dr. May Mellanby, Dr. Weston Price and Sir Robert McCarrison advocated.

Although the 2010 guidelines are too focused on nutrients for my taste, they do spend some time talking about food groups and eating patterns, for example, recommending an increase in the consumption of vegetables, fruit, whole grains and seafood. They also recommend Mediterranean and plant-focused eating patterns. Although I don't think their recommendations quite hit the mark, they do reflect a shift in thinking.

Another thing I enjoyed about the Guidelines is the table on page 12 of chapter 2, which shows just how messed up the average American diet is. The number one source of calories in all age groups is "grain-based desserts". The next five in adults are yeast breads, chicken dishes, soda/sports drinks, alcohol and pizza. To see typical American food habits presented like this just blows me away. They call this the "obesogenic environment"; the idea that we're surrounded by tasty but unhealthy food and situations that favor the consumption of it. I agree.

The Guidelines also contain a surprisingly accurate one-sentence review of the glycemic index literature:

Strong evidence shows that glycemic index and/or glycemic load are not associated with body weight; thus, it is not necessary to consider these measures when selecting carbohydrate foods and beverages for weight management.

Negative

The first problem is the creation of the category "solid fats and added sugars", abbreviated SoFAS. With the creation of this term, they lump pastured butter together with Crisco and Red Hots. If they've been hiding the evidence that pastured butter, virgin coconut oil or red palm oil contribute to heart disease, I'd like to see it so I can stop eating them!

Another problem is their list of recommendations to curb the obesity epidemic. They say:

The current high rates of overweight and obesity among virtually all subgroups of the population in the United States demonstrate that many Americans are in calorie imbalance—that is, they consume more calories than they expend. To curb the obesity epidemic and improve their health, Americans need to make significant efforts to decrease the total number of calories they consume from foods and beverages and increase calorie expenditure through physical activity.

Looks like we have Sherlock Holmes on the case. Now that we have this information, all we have to do is tell overweight people to eat less and they'll be lean again! What's that, they already know and it's not working?? Someone should tell the USDA.

Jokes aside, I do think energy balance is a huge issue, perhaps even the central issue in chronic disease risk in affluent nations. The basic problem is that Americans are eating more calories than is optimal, and they have a very hard time stopping. It's not because they have less willpower than their stoic ancestors, it's because their bodies have decided that overweight/obesity is the new lean, and they defend that higher level of fat mass against changes. Simply telling an overweight person to eat fewer calories, without changing the dietary context, is not very effective in the long term, due to compensatory mechanisms including hunger and increased metabolic efficiency (fewer calories burned for the same muscular exertion).

What does the USDA recommend to lose fat or maintain leanness?

• Count calories. Doesn't work for most people, although I acknowledge that it is physically possible to lose fat (and lean mass) by restricting calories.
• Reduce sweetened beverages. Thumbs up.
• Serve smaller portions. As far as I know, this rests exclusively on very short-term studies that showed that food consumed at a single meal or three is reduced if portion size is smaller. I guess it can't hurt to try it, but I'm not convinced it will have any effect on long-term body fatness. I think restaurant portion sizes have probably increased because people eat more, rather than the other way around, although both could be true.
  
• Eat foods that are less calorie dense. I think vegetables are healthy, but is it because they're less calorie-dense? Why is dietary fat intake generally not associated with obesity if it's the most calorie-dense substance? Why do many people lose body fat eating energy-dense low-carbohydrate diets? Not convinced, but I'm feeling open minded about this one.
• Exercise more and watch less TV. Exercise is good. But don't let it make you hungry, because then you'll eat more!

Overall, I think their recommendations for fat loss are not very satisfying because they don't address the core reasons Americans aren't in energy balance. Eliminating sweetened beverages and exercising are the most solid advice they offered in my opinion. The rest strikes me as wishy-washy advice that's offered because they have to say something.

At one point, they talk about changes in the US diet that have corresponded with the obesity epidemic:

Average daily calories available per person in the marketplace increased approximately 600 calories, with the greatest increases in the availability of added fats and oils, grains, milk and milk products, and caloric sweeteners.

Let me edit that so it's more complete:

Average daily calories available per person in the marketplace increased approximately 600 calories per day, 250 calories of which were actually consumed (USDA and NHANES). Added fats increased, due to a large increase in seed oil intake, but total fat intake remained approximately the same because of a roughly equal decrease in fatty meat and whole milk consumption (USDA and NHANES). Grain intake, predominantly wheat, increased, as did the consumption of refined sweeteners, predominantly high-fructose corn syrup (USDA).

It reads a bit differently once you have a little more information, doesn't it? Animal fat intake declined considerably, and was replaced by seed oils, in parallel with the obesity and diabetes epidemics. Maybe it contributed, maybe it didn't, but why not just be forthright about it? People appreciate honesty.

Conclusion

Although the 2010 USDA Dietary Guidelines show some promising trends, and contain some good information, I hope you can find a better source than the USDA for your nutrition advice.

Short Twist/Braid Styles: Part II

Cute, professional twist and braid styles for shorter hair.  The 2nd in a three-part series.

The style: Mini/medium box braids (pinned to the side)

Duration of wear: 3-4 weeks (recommended)

Great for: 

+minimizing shrinkage; 
+minimizing knots; 
+strands that unravel too easily in twists 

How to (recommended): Do on dry, stretched hair to show more of your length.  (The hair does not need to be blow dried or flat ironed.  Airdrying in plaits or twists is sufficient.)  Apply a butter and/or gel on the ends for a natural curl or coil.  The other option is to perm rod the ends.  NOTE: The box braids do not have to be mini; you can make them a little bigger to save time.

Amp it up a notch:  Once your box braids are complete, flat twist a few of them on the sides to create a beautiful updo (see this video). Another option is to use bobby pins instead.

Mini box braid styles:

Mini box braid tutorial (4a/4b):

Mini box braid tutorial (3c/4a):

Healthy Hair Feature: Janet

1) Are you natural, relaxed, texlaxed, or transitioning?
I am natural. I was a long-term transitioner from 2004 to early 2006 and have been fully natural since early 2006.

About Janet's color ...
I have all-over color…triple processed. I maintain my hair through hard protein treatments (such as Aphogee 2-step), deep conditioners, and steam treatments.

2) What mistakes have you made in your hair care journey?
I have only truly been on my healthy hair journey for coming up on a year and thus far, I cannot say that I have made too many mistakes. Thankfully, being a part of hair forums has helped me to avert major crises, but I will say that one should think carefully about coloring hair because you must be ready to baby it for the next year.

3) What is your current HEALTHY HAIR routine?
I try to wash my hair every 7-10 days. I either deep condition or moisturize pre-poo every other wash. I do a hard protein treatment every 6 to 8 weeks (as needed). I use Hot Six Oils (love the ceramides in it) as a moisturizer. I love coconut oil and will be incorporating it more during these Winter months. I also utilize low manipulation styles (such as wash and go ponys, twist-outs, rollersets, etc) as a way of protecting my hair.

4) Do you have a HEALTHY BODY routine? If so, what is it?
I wash my face every morning with Yes to Cucumbers Calming Gel. I get a massage at least once a month because I feel that beauty definitely starts from within and massages help relieve stress and tension built up. I am not quite a vegetarian, but I do not eat beef or pork (and haven’t for several years). I wish that I could say that I exercise on a regular basis- that is one thing that I would like to increase for 2011. During the Spring/Summer months, I like to walk outside…but during the Winter months, I am more dormant.


5) Do you have any advice for those seeking healthy tresses?
Seek out hair forums…There is so much information out there, I found that hair forums have everything you could ever want to know in a centralized location. Also, the ladies on the forum are so knowledgeable and sweet.

Start small…Rome wasn’t built in a day, as they say…One cannot go from neck length to waist length overnight; take your time and enjoy the journey.

You can find Janet on:
Fotki: www.fotki.com/ATLPeach
Long Hair Care Forum - Janet’
Twitter: baby2steps
Tumblr: stephjanet.tumblr.com

Short Twist/Braid Styles: Part I

Cute, professional twist and braid styles for shorter hair.  The first in a three-part series.

During my 2nd year natural: Co-washed micro twists after airdrying (left) and micro twists pinned into a style (right).

The style: Micro/mini twists; "wet-n-go" micro/mini twists
Duration of wear: 2 weeks max if your hair locs easily
Hair type: ideal for the tightly curled to the kinky (like me)

How to (recommended): Do on damp hair to achieve volume.  Do on mostly dry, stretched hair for length.  Apply a butter and/or gel on the ends for a natural curl or coil.  "Grab and go" as you twist.  There is no need to make neat parts for this particular style.

Amp it up a notch:  I call this the "wet-n-go" twist set.  Wet your twists every 2-3 days. Apply a light conditioner first, then let the water run through the strands without manipulating the hair. Afterwards, spritz with a water-oil based moisturizer or a leave-in conditioner. Your natural coils or curls will come to life and your hair will be more voluminous. (The micro twists help kinkier strands to "clump" together and form coils on the ends.) That's it! Add a headband, pin to one side, or put on cute earrings to accessorize.

If you're prone to single-strand knots: After wetting, apply perm rods, band, or cornrow the twists until dry. Unravel for a stretched but curly look.

Mini Twists:


More Mini Twists:

Coming Soon ... Short Twist/Braid Styles

Hi ladies,

I've been receiving a couple of comments about twist/braid styles on shorter hair that are actually cute and/or professional.  Starting Friday, I'll do a three-part series on the topic.  In the meantime, here are some tips:

-rock your twists/braids under a wig
-accessorize with beautiful earrings and makeup
-rock your twists/braids under a cute beanie or hat
-slip on a cute headband or scarf
-rod your twists/braids for a voluminous, curly look
-flat twist or cornrow into twists/braids updo